Saturday, 18 July 2009

Extreme contrast

This is one of the first I took in my Urban decay, lost spaces and industrial ugliness photo essay (taken mainly around the dock areas of Plymouth - "urban ugly" for short).

Pomphlett Creek

I'm not sure what it was that drove me to treat this with such high contrast. Perhaps it was the drama of the sky, perhaps the starkness of fine ladies against the muddy bottom of the creek.

In a future post you'll see what lies behind this shot — the gracefully decaying ladies who gave the best of themselves in service on the water.



comments / feedback / critique welcome as always

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Saturday, 30 May 2009

RAW, HDR and related resources

Since my post about RAW there's been a lot of interest and a number of questions have been thrown up. So this post gives links to and discusses resources that answer them and that I've found useful.

Expose so you bias the histogram to the right

...but without blowing the highlights.

In the full article from The Luminous Landscape, you'll read that most of the available levels of brightness that come out of a sensor's cell get allocated to the right hand side of the histogram, only a few to the left and a middling amount to the middle.

It's essential that you get this point because when you do you'll realise that the right hand side of the histogram is where you get most sensitivity to differences in shades and the left hand side the least.

Note that for HDR this means that you'll need more exposures for the shadows than the highlights to get the same number of shades (tones) in each.

The Luminous Landscape have also got a useful link to an article on understanding histograms.

Work in 16 bits for as long as possible

The topic of bit depth is covered in a quite digestible way here.

I only convert to 8 bits at the end of my workflow, when moving to jpeg:
  • I save my final file while it's still 16 bits so I can go back to it later, when needed
  • Then I convert to 8bit, do some final touch-ups such as noise removal and sharpening suited for the uses I'll put the jpeg to,
  • Then it's a save as, using jpeg as the file type.

Downloads and other links

Rawshooter Essentials

I still use Rawshooter for working with RAW, whether for preparing multiple exposures for my HDR workflow or the single 16bit TIFF ready for the Photoshop part of my workflow. It supports my Canon 350D's RAW files. If you do use it, it's vital

Before you download it, consider some things first. The company and software was bought by Adobe in 2006 and incorporated in Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop (see a tutorial on using their Camera RAW plug-in). Rawshooter doesn't support a lot of cameras released since the buyout, including Canon’s 5D, 40D, 450D/Digital Rebel XSi, and 400D/Digital Rebel XTi; and Nikon’s D40, D40x, D60, D80, D3, and D300. Download it here.

Noise Ninja

I use Picturecode's Noise Ninja to correct the noise I get in HDR work when I wasn't able / didn't(!) follow the advice in the article above... There's a free version but it only works on 8bit images, so useful only as a final step when converting to jpeg. Download here

DynamicPhoto HDR

I haven't tried Photomatix, though many swear by it. My own preference is DPHDR. Download here. The page gives a great explanation of where HDR is useful and what it does.

Video tutorial

I've put together a tutorial showing the processing from RAW to finished HDR image. It's twenty minutes long but don't let that put you off -- lots of people have said how they found it easy to follow and understand :) See it here.

The image used is one from my Urban Decay, Lost Spaces and Industrial Ugliness photo essay.

RAW explained in more detail

For those who want a more detailed explanation of how RAW works (rather than what it does for you, as I covered) read this.



That's all for this post. As usual comments, additional info, opposing views(!) are all welcome :)

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Wednesday, 27 May 2009

RAW setting / file type explained

One of my followers, Gail (thanks for the question Gail) asked about RAW and I said I would answer it in my next post. So here goes -- note that I keep mentioning jpeg but the same pretty much applies to tiff (an option on some cameras), too.

In short

A RAW file records the output of all the tiny cells on your camera's sensor when the shot was captured, with each cell producing a brightness value for the amount of red, blue and green light falling on it.

In a sense, it's much the same for film cameras. When you take a shot, what's on the film? Just the chemical gel, with some of the light-sensitive chemicals changed by their reaction to the red, blue and green light falling on them. You then take the film to be processed to produce a negative -- a one way process.

Without RAW, your camera immediately converts the sensor output to jpeg, before storing it on your memory card -- a one way process. And because the sensor captures far more information than can be stored in jpeg format, a lot is discarded during the conversion.

What is the extra information that is lost?

The range from dark to bright recorded by the sensor is much wider than can be held in a jpeg; in a RAW file, it's like you have 7 different exposures in one, from -3 stops to +3 stops. Say you took the shot at 100 ASA, f8, 1/100s, then most digital cameras' sensors will capture the equivalent of f22, f16, f11, f8, f5.6, f4, f2.8 all in one RAW file.

Of course, with a jpeg, it records things at just one exposure setting, the one you (or the camera) set when you took the shot.

What other practical things does a RAW file allow you to do?

White Balance

This is real useful. You see, another thing that conversion fixes in stone is the "white balance". Unless you remembered to set it correctly, shots taken indoors or under street lamps can end up with a horrid yellow or blue colour cast. But with RAW you get to play with the white balance (also called colour temperature), try it this way, try it that, to see what works best for the shot.

Sharpening

Even when perfectly focused, all sensors produce a slightly unsharp image and your camera, in converting to jpeg, applies a standard amount of sharpening. Well, you guessed, a RAW file doesn't have any sharpening applied, it's something you get a chance to play with once it reaches your pc.

Downside to shooting in RAW

The size of a RAW file is much bigger than jpeg and therefore fills up your memory card much quicker, and also takes longer to save to it. It also means it takes longer for you to end up with a finished image, as you have to make all the decisions (after playing around!) rather than the camera making them for you at the time of the shot.

To sum up

RAW is like an exposed but unprocessed film.
Shooting in RAW leaves all the important decisions to you and, maybe most importantly, gives you a lot of flexibility to correct exposure and white balance where the camera (or you!) gets it wrong.

As usual, your comments and questions are welcome :)

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